Chicago is a masonry city and it always has been. After the 1871 fire the building ordinances pushed construction toward brick and stone, and what went up afterward is still standing. The bungalows, the two flats, the greystones, the courtyard buildings. Brick laid a hundred years ago that is still sound today.
That is the standard we build to, and it is a higher one than most climates require. New masonry in Chicago has to survive dozens of freeze thaw cycles every winter, wind driven rain off the lake, a temperature range of well over a hundred degrees across the year, and clay soil that moves seasonally underneath whatever you build on it.
Getting that right is not about laying brick neatly. It is about the foundation under the wall, the mortar specification, drainage and weeps, flashing details, expansion joints, and reinforcement where movement is inevitable. Those decisions are invisible when the job is finished and they determine whether the wall is still plumb in thirty years.
Because we spend most of our time on foundations and below grade work, we approach new masonry from the ground up rather than from the face inward. That tends to show.
Chicago Basements Waterproofing & Foundation has been building and repairing this city’s masonry for 30 years.
Structural and non structural walls built to specification, from garage walls and additions to full building envelopes.
Masonry work for rear additions, side extensions, garages and coach houses, including matching brick to an existing century old building so the addition does not announce itself.
Engineered retaining walls with proper drainage, weeps and reinforcement, because a retaining wall without drainage is a wall holding back water as well as soil. Plus garden walls, planters and landscape masonry.
Load bearing walls, piers, columns and structural block work, engineered and built to carry what it needs to carry.
Natural stone, cut stone and veneer installation, including the flashing and moisture management behind it that most veneer failures come down to.
New block and poured foundation walls, built with drainage and waterproofing integrated from the start rather than added later.
Porch columns, structural piers and decorative pillars, built on footings sized for Chicago frost depth.
New concrete and masonry steps, stoops, walkways and patios, built to survive de icing salt and freeze thaw.
Underpinning may be needed when foundation settlement, structural movement, or soil instability threatens the stability of your Chicago home.
✔ Building a rear or side addition that needs matched masonry
✔ Constructing a new garage, coach house or outbuilding
✔ Replacing a failed retaining wall
✔ Adding a garden wall, planter or landscape masonry
✔ Building new porch columns or structural piers
✔ Installing stone veneer or a new facade
✔ Rebuilding front steps and a stoop from scratch
✔ Constructing a new foundation or basement wall
✔ Adding structural block work for a basement conversion
✔ Building a new patio, walkway or hardscape area
✔ Needing masonry that matches an existing historic building
✔ Working with an architect or engineer who needs a mason who reads drawings
The matching question comes up constantly in Chicago. Adding onto a 1920s bungalow or greystone means sourcing brick that sits alongside a century of weathering without looking new. Sometimes that means reclaimed Chicago common brick, sometimes a close modern match with a mortar color chosen to bridge the difference. It is worth asking any contractor how they intend to handle it before work starts, because it cannot be fixed afterward.
Frost depth dictates the foundation. Chicago frost penetrates deep, and anything built on a footing above that depth will be lifted and dropped by frost heave every winter until it cracks. This is the single most common reason new garden walls, steps and porch piers fail within a few years. They were built on inadequate footings by someone who did not account for how deep the frost goes here.
Freeze thaw punishes the wrong materials. Water absorbed into mortar or brick freezes, expands roughly nine percent, and pushes. Dozens of times a winter, every winter. Brick has to be rated for severe weathering exposure, and mortar has to be specified for the job rather than mixed to whatever is convenient. Get either wrong and the wall spalls within a decade.
Mortar has to match the brick, not exceed it. Mortar should be softer than the masonry around it so it absorbs movement sacrificially. Using high strength Portland cement mortar with softer brick, particularly when tying into older Chicago masonry, forces the failure into the brick faces instead of the joints. It is a common mistake and it is not reversible.
Clay soil moves whatever you build on it. Glacial clay swells when saturated and shrinks as it dries, and it does so with enough force to move footings. New masonry needs proper footings, drainage and expansion joints, or the seasonal movement simply cracks it.
Water has to have a way out. Masonry is not waterproof and it is not supposed to be. It absorbs moisture and releases it. A wall built without weeps, flashing or a drainage plane traps water inside, and in a Chicago winter trapped water becomes ice inside the wall.
Road salt attacks anything at ground level. Steps, stoops and walkways take de icing salt every winter, which scales concrete surfaces and corrodes reinforcement. Material selection at ground level matters more here than people expect.
Not every masonry project needs to start from scratch, and it is worth knowing which conversation you are in before you get a quote.
Building new makes sense when:
You are adding space, a wall has failed structurally, a retaining wall is leaning or has lost its drainage, or what is there was built badly enough that repair is throwing money at it. Also when you simply want something that does not currently exist, a garden wall, a patio, new columns.
Restoring what is there makes sense when:
The masonry is structurally sound and the problem is confined to mortar joints, a few spalled bricks or surface deterioration. Chicago brick from the pre war era is frequently better material than what you would replace it with, and a well restored original wall is usually worth more than a new one. That work is on our Masonry & Concrete Repairs page.
Where it gets genuinely close. A deteriorated retaining wall, a badly spalled set of front steps, or a chimney that has gone out of plumb can go either way, and the honest answer depends on how much sound material is left. We will tell you which, and we will tell you when restoration is the better value even though the rebuild is the larger job.
The question worth asking any masonry contractor. How deep are the footings going, and what mortar are you specifying and why. If the answer to either is vague, that tells you what you need to know about how the wall will look in fifteen years
We visit, look at the site, discuss what you are trying to build, assess soil conditions and access, and work out what the project actually requires structurally.
Materials, brick matching, mortar specification, footing depth and drainage details worked through, with engineering and permitting handled where the project calls for it.
Itemized and clear. Scope, materials, timeline and price agreed before anything begins.
Built properly with correct footings, materials and detailing. Site protected throughout, cleaned on completion, and the finished work photographed.
Experience you can trust
Real results. Real people.
Fully covered, fully accountable